set up the logger (once) via laptop and configure all the CAN stream. The AIM setup is easy- find power in the dash and connect the CAN lines to one of the car's CAN busses. but it's expensive (Cameras are $1000 each new) after you're done, pull the card out of the camera and plug it into a laptop. it starts recording when you go over 10mph or 2500rpm and dumps the data and video straight to an SD card. you can't just scroll through your AIM data and video to quickly find what caused that spin on lap 3.ĪIM also has their proprietary Smart圜am hardware which interfaces with their data units. it's doable, but adds time to the process, so a quick data/video review after a track session isn't as easy. Mating the AIM data to a non-Smart圜am takes external software. If you want to go this way, make sure you get the Solo2DL, not the Solo2. The Solo2DL is a great unit and will do everything on your list. They are fairly pricey, but they do a lot and "everyone" has data you can compare. ĪIM's product line seems to be the current go-to for real data because of wide installation base and a large product line. here's a screenshot of what you should see at the correct brake point. they literally tell you "brake later in turn X, or take a wider entry at turn Y. driving coach in a box! Even guys that were already pretty good drivers were able to quickly find ways to drop time with those units. If you want to work on improvement and not necessarily concerned about high def video with pretty graphics, then the Garmin Catalyst is the latest widget on the market. AIM, Motec, Racepak, RaceLogic, Traqmate that I can think of off hand. Of the big data guys, AIM is the most popular, but there's a dozen or so major companies out there. If your goal is to use the data and videos to learn and improve your driving, then the sky is the limit for what you can spend and record. So if you're interested in basic stuff and only concerned with getting the lap time accurate within a few tenths, then those types of guys are great and FREE. include the error built into consumer grade GPS, and your lap times and lines around the track aren't going to be terribly accurate for study and driver coaching. (there are add-on GPS modules that get your phone to 5 or 10hz, but they eat tons more battery). Many of those apps have a data resolution limit though because the phone's GPS only updates at 1Hz. Harry's Lap Timer, RaceChrono, and TrackAddict are phone apps that do video and overlay, etc. If your main goal is getting videos with a pretty track map and data on it, then there are a number of them that will work. You've listed a few basic requirements for the hardware, but what are you looking to get out of said hardware? The Garmin Catalyst look interesting, I'd love to give one a chance. What do your friends or competitors(if they'll share data) use? That is a big factor as well. Race render, as mentioned before, is another option for overlay. The Smarty cam has good integration from what I've seen (I don't personally own one but know those that do) but is OMG expensive. The software has a bit of a learning curve but once you get it setup how you'd like it greatly accelerates things (If you aren't using the profiles you need to get on that!) The biggest drawback it that it requires a standalone computer to run the analysis. It's portable and the amount of data is collect is awesome. I've had this for 2 years and so far it's been rock solid. I ended up so frustrated with it I listed it for sale from the track one day. Additionally, I never got the CAN data to work reliably. At the time the software and analysis was meh at best and buggy. To preface, the last time I used it was 2 years ago, maybe it's better now. I bought into the original kickstarter with healthy skepticism and a little hope. That said, I loved the app and the quick view of sector data is great. It was all too much hassle for me combined with the desire for "better" data I searched for something more cohesive. Great app and reliable but I got sick of firing up the GPS nugget, the Gopro, plugging in the OBDII reader and making sure it all connected.
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